Asphalt & Driveway Installation
Driveway Installation & Asphalt Paving Contractor
A driveway is a small road, and roads fail from the bottom up. Base depth, compaction and where the water goes decide whether your pavement lasts twenty years or alligator-cracks in five.
Overview
Driveways Built From The Subgrade, Not The Surface
Almost every failed driveway we tear out failed for one of three reasons: the base was too thin, the subgrade was never compacted or was full of organics, or water had nowhere to go. The asphalt itself is rarely the culprit. So that is where we spend the effort — stripping topsoil and unsuitable material, proof-rolling the subgrade, undercutting soft spots, placing and compacting aggregate base to a real depth, and shaping the drive so water leaves it in every rainstorm.
Beast Construction Inc installs new asphalt driveways, gravel and crush-and-run drives, and concrete driveways, plus everything around them: culverts and pipe under the entrance, drainage swales and ditch shaping, turnarounds and backing bays, parking pads, aprons and garage transitions, retaining walls where a drive is cut into a slope, and final grading and seeding along the shoulders. Our excavation and grading and drainage crews are the same people, so the drainage is not somebody else's scope.
We are equally comfortable with a suburban two-car driveway and a quarter-mile rural drive across changing ground in Southside Virginia or on a steep Utah bench lot. Long driveways bring their own problems: sustained grades that need to stay under what a delivery truck can climb in ice, cross-slope so runoff crosses rather than runs down the drive, culverts sized for the drainage area, wide spots for passing, and a turnaround a fire truck can actually use.
New Asphalt Driveways
A typical residential asphalt driveway is built as excavation and subgrade prep, geotextile fabric where soils are weak, compacted aggregate base, then asphalt in one or two lifts depending on the design and traffic. Thickness is specified for the actual use — passenger vehicles are one thing, a drive that sees dump trucks, RVs, horse trailers or equipment is another. Edges are the weak point of asphalt, so we compact them properly and can add a concrete or paver edge restraint where it makes sense.
We also do gravel-to-asphalt conversions, which are cheaper than people expect when the existing gravel base is salvageable and much more expensive when it is not — we will core or dig test spots and tell you which situation you are in before quoting.
Gravel & Crush-And-Run Drives
Gravel remains the right answer on many rural properties, long drives and construction accesses. Done properly it means a shaped and compacted subgrade, geotextile separation fabric to keep stone from pumping into the soil, a coarse base course, and a crush-and-run or dense-graded surface crowned to shed water. Done improperly it means dumping stone on mud, which buys you one dry season.
We also rehabilitate existing gravel drives: regrading and re-crowning, ditch and shoulder restoration, filling wheel ruts with proper material rather than screenings, adding stone at the entrance and on grades where it migrates, and installing or replacing culverts that have crushed or silted in.
Concrete Driveways & Aprons
Concrete costs more up front, lasts longer with less maintenance, holds up under heat and heavy point loads, and looks cleaner — but it is less forgiving of settlement and harder to patch invisibly. We install reinforced concrete driveways, aprons, garage transitions and parking pads with a compacted base, proper thickness and control joints on correct spacing. Our concrete page covers the detail, and our hardscape crews build paver driveways where the look justifies the cost.
Repair, Overlay, Patching & Sealcoating
Existing pavement gets triaged honestly. Isolated alligator cracking over a failed area needs full-depth patching, not an overlay that will crack through in a season. A structurally sound surface with age-related cracking and oxidation is a good candidate for milling and overlay or a straightforward overlay with proper edge and transition detail. Sealcoating protects an intact surface from oxidation and water intrusion, but it is cosmetic on a pavement that has already failed structurally — and we will say so rather than sell it.
Commercial parking lots get the same triage plus striping, ADA compliance review, drainage corrections and curb repair — see commercial construction.
Culverts, Entrances & Access Permits
Where a driveway meets a public road, the entrance usually falls under a state or county right-of-way permit that dictates apron dimensions, sight distance, culvert size and material. We size and install driveway culverts and headwalls, shape ditches so the pipe actually functions, and handle the entrance permit coordination. Getting this wrong is one of the few driveway mistakes that can force you to rebuild the whole entrance later.
Scope of work
What’s Included
Driveway quotes state base depth, asphalt or concrete thickness and drainage work so you can compare bids fairly. Typical scope:
- Layout, staking, grades and drainage plan
- Right-of-way and entrance permit coordination
- Removal of failed pavement or existing gravel
- Topsoil and unsuitable material stripping
- Subgrade shaping, proof-roll and undercut
- Geotextile separation fabric where needed
- Aggregate base placement and compaction
- Culvert, headwall and ditch installation
- Swales, shoulders and roadside drainage
- Asphalt binder and surface course paving
- Concrete driveways, aprons and garage transitions
- Gravel and crush-and-run surfacing
- Turnarounds, wide spots and parking pads
- Full-depth patching, milling and overlay
- Sealcoating and striping where appropriate
- Shoulder grading, topsoil, seed and cleanup
New Driveway Or A Failing One?
Give us length, width, surface and how steep it is. We will price a driveway that is built to last, not just surfaced.
How we work
Our Driveway Process
Paving day is the short part. The two days before it decide the outcome.
Walk & Measure
We measure length, width and grades, check where water runs, evaluate the existing base and identify entrance and culvert requirements.
Specify The Section
You get a written pavement section: base depth, asphalt or concrete thickness, fabric, drainage work and any permit needs.
Prepare The Base
Removal, stripping, subgrade shaping, proof-roll, undercut of soft areas, fabric, then base stone placed and compacted in lifts.
Pave Or Surface
Asphalt placed and rolled to specified thickness, concrete poured and jointed, or gravel spread and compacted with a proper crown.
Finish The Edges
Shoulders graded, ditches cleaned, topsoil and seed along the edges, plus clear guidance on when to drive and park on it.
One crew, one responsibility
The Drainage And The Driveway Are The Same Job
Paving contractors pave. When a driveway needs a culvert, a swale, a retaining wall or a regraded shoulder to survive, that either becomes an excluded item on your quote or a second contractor to hire. We own the excavators, so it is one number and one crew.
Ready for a real driveway? Request a free estimate and we will walk it with you.
Answers
Frequently Asked Questions
Driveway questions we answer on nearly every site visit.
How much base stone does a driveway actually need?
It depends on the soil and the traffic, not on a universal number. Firm, well-draining subgrade under passenger-car traffic needs far less base than clay soil that stays wet or a drive that sees loaded trucks and equipment. We evaluate the subgrade, sometimes dig test holes, and specify a base depth in the written quote so you can compare it against other bids instead of guessing.
Asphalt, concrete or gravel — which should I choose?
Gravel is cheapest to install and needs periodic regrading and stone. Asphalt is a middle cost, flexes with freeze-thaw movement, is easy to patch and wants sealcoating every few years. Concrete costs the most, lasts the longest with the least maintenance and handles heat and heavy point loads best. Slope, climate, budget and how long you plan to own the property all steer the answer, and we install all three.
How soon can I drive and park on new asphalt?
Light traffic is generally fine once the pavement has cooled, often the same day. New asphalt stays soft for several weeks to a few months in warm weather, so avoid parking in one spot for long periods, turning wheels while stationary, and setting jack stands or trailer tongues directly on it. We give you specific guidance for the season you paved in.
Do I need a permit for a new driveway entrance?
Usually yes where the driveway connects to a public road. State or county right-of-way permits typically govern apron width, sight distance, culvert size and material. We handle the coordination and build the entrance to the approved detail. Interior driveway work on private property often needs no permit, but stormwater rules can apply on larger areas of new impervious surface.
Can you fix a driveway that holds water or has ruts?
Yes, and the fix has to address the water first. Ponding and rutting are drainage and base problems, so patching the surface alone just resets the clock. We regrade for positive drainage, install or clear culverts and swales, undercut and rebuild failed base sections, then patch or resurface. If the base is sound and only the surface is worn, an overlay is a legitimate and much cheaper option.
Get A Driveway Quote That Lists The Base
Call either number or send dimensions and a photo. Free written estimates in Virginia, Florida, Utah, California and Wyoming.